Care of Joeys and Young Kangaroos

Introduction

Kangaroos, wallabies and all other marsupials are protected fauna and may not be kept in captivity except under license.  On occasions, because they have been orphaned or abandoned, some of these animals are in need of care and attention in their early life from experienced carers.  It is essential that you are either experienced or under the guidance of an experienced carer before attempting to raise a joey.  Many joey’s die through inexperienced care. 

It is also important to have a plan for the joey’s future, see the release information at the end of this information page.  

Warning: It should be noted that mature unsterilized male kangaroos (Greys, Reds and Euros) can become difficult to handle and are capable of causing injury. 

Early Development

Kangaroos and wallabies are born only about 30 days after being conceived and are therefore at a very early stage of development.  They are 25-50mm in length, have no fur and the only well formed parts of the body are the front limbs and the mouth – further development continues in the mother’s pouch. 

The front limbs are used by the new born kangaroos or “joeys” to pull themselves up to the pouch where they will, unaided, attach themselves to one of the mother’s teats. 

Young of the red and grey kangaroo live up to 12 months in the controlled environment of the pouch and even when they do venture out, they return to the pouch until they are about one year old.  At this stage they weigh about 2.7kg.  Even after this they still suckle from their mother and need the constant care and protection she provides. 

From this, it is evident that a joey needs constant care and attention if it is to survive when taken prematurely from the mother. 

Warmth

Warmth is the first essential.  Unable to generate enough body heat until almost ready to leave the mother’s pouch, young kangaroos need artificial warmth at all times.  An electric blanket is more efficient.  Constant heat may also be maintained by using a screened 15 watt pilot globe mounted beneath a false bottom in a strong cardboard box.  Ensure that the globe does not touch the cardboard.  The joey is then placed in the upper compartment where the temperature should be between 30 and 32 degrees C.  This can be regulated by using more or less padding or by adjusting the height of the globe.  Older, fully furred joeys can be kept in a soft bag or woolen jumper which should be hung up to simulate the pouch.

Feeding

The diet should consist of fluids to replace the mother’s milk, and solid food for older animals. 

Formula:

Wombaroo kangaroo product and Bioloc Marsupial milk are the recommended diets for young joeys.

Note: A formula should only be changed gradually and on expert advice. Changes will only upset the animal and may bring on diarrhoea.  Kangaroo’s milk is different that cows milk, cows milk should never be fed to joeys.  When feeding a young joey you should try to simulate the mother’s nipple which is long and thin, a substitute such as a rubber joey’s teat.  A larger joey may lap its milk.  Remember that it is very important to keep all feeding equipment clean and sterilized.  Joeys should be fed according to the instructions on the milk product. 

Solid Food

The presence of teeth does not mean that solids are required, but as soon as the joey starts to explore and show interest in its surroundings, it should be given the opportunity to eat or explore some solids.  It is a good idea to include in its bedding dry or green grass – this gives the joey the opportunity to nibble if it feels inclined.  Joeys can be fed on the following solids: green grass, woolly bush.  Make sure that the leaves and grass have not been sprayed with poison.  Grass should be included as much as possible. Commercial kangaroo muesli or alpaca muesli can also be fed. 

Skin Care

Inside the mother’s pouch the joey’s skin is kept moist, but in the open air it tends to dry out and crack.  If the joey is fully furred this does not present a problem, but if it is naked, or partly furred, baby oil should be rubbed into the skin twice daily.  Many joeys at this immature stage die despite constant attention because they are not old enough to withstand conditions out of the mother’s pouch. 

Ailments

Pneumonia: Young kangaroos may contract colds or pneumonia if exposed to cool breezes or draughts.  The symptoms begin with a clear discharge from the nose which rapidly thickens and consequently breathing becomes difficult.  The nasal obstruction also causes difficulty in suckling and the lack of food increases the loss of condition and progressive weakness. Antibiotic drugs (injectable not oral) help in controlling the disease but constant, even warmth and hand feeding contribute greatly to recovery. 

Scouring: This condition may occur when the joey is over-fed or given the wrong food.  It is probably due to the change in the natural diet.  Speak to your vet in regards to treatment with medication, electrolytes or pro-biotics.  If diarrhoea – stop milk & bottle feed electrolyte only for 24 hours then back onto half strength milk for 24 hours then build back to full strength milk. 

Colic: When young kangaroos are big enough to move around, they eat all sorts of foreign substances which may cause an obstruction in the bowel.  The joey twists his body awkwardly and rolls on the ground, refusing food and water.  One dessertspoon of paraffin oil (no other) given by eye dropper should relieve the condition within half an hour.  Another dose may be given but if that fails consult your vet. 

Release

When raising a joey, consideration must be given to the plan for their future.  If you don’t have somewhere to release them safely you shouldn’t raise them.  For their own benefit they should be passed on to an experienced carer.  Kangaroos are social animals and live in mobs.  Joeys are first “mobbed up” with others of the same age group before being released into the wild.  At no time should a joey raised and severely imprinted to humans be released on their own to the wild.  They will surely die. 

Licenses are issued for special purposes only and not just to keep fauna as pets.  If, however, you consider that an animal you have reared is unable to look after itself, you should contact your district wildlife Officer who will investigate. 

Unless declared otherwise all fauna in W.A. is protected. 

For information on legal aspects contact the Wildlife Officer in your district.  If the joey fails to respond to the care outlined, consult your local veterinary surgeon.

 

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